Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro: 26oC, warmish and sunny.
It is late afternoon, almost evening. I have worked out, worked, had a rest, and now I am bored. Yasmin is at home doing her things; Nalva said she would arrive later than usual, so I need to do something and go somewhere.
After some contemplation, I decided to walk around Flamengo, maybe buy some food, and even pass by the restaurant/bar where Tadeu said he would be with Gabriel the night before. It is neither cool nor warm in the street; it is just enjoyable for a Carioca winter. There are many people in the street because Friday is the night!
I walk up Rua Marques de Abrantes, and as I cross the street to pass in front of the bar, I catch a glimpse of Tadeu and Gabriel sitting around a small table outside in front of the restaurant, alfresco dining style. Tadeu is facing me, and Gabriel is with his back to me. As I approached, I was about five metres from them when Tadeu recognised me, and his face lit up.
Gabriel immediately turned around and stood up to compliment me, talking at once about Argentina being FIFA World Cup Champions. South Americans and an adopted one discussed football, which they considered more important than women and politics. I responded by sincerely stating that Messi deserved the title. It was the cherry on the cake, the only title missing from his career.
After all the complimenting, joking and a lot of provocation and bullshitting, I said that I was just passing and did not have the intention of staying as I did not want to intrude; they said no, they were sincerely happy to see me.
We sat down to drink some chopps and put everything up to date in our lives. We talked about Brazil, Argentina, life in general, stoicism, each one looking for a way to provoke and take the piss out of the other; it was very nice.
Gabriel has an excellent job at an Australian mining company, a good quality of life there, and is very well with his family in Australia. However, he also said, and he has said it before, that even though he has a very good quality of life in Australia, there is not the playfulness, joking, and teasing that there is here in Rio. Other people and friends who were originally from other states in Brazil have said more or less the same.
Rio de Janeiro has a unique and happy ambience that other places do not have. I am not so sure. I have had many happy and sound experiences in different places, both in and out of Brazil, but what I do believe is that Rio has something special. The main point is that it has this different contagious, hypnotic, fun-loving ambience that seems to absorb everybody who lives or comes to the city, although it is a city of profound suffering.
The political, social, and economic problems that are a severe part of Rio’s daily life are some of the worst for Brazil and the world as a major city. It is a paradox where a place so punished in so many different ways and forms can still be happy, pleasant and good for its inhabitants.
I also asked Gabriel about Argentina. He said that we all know about Argentina’s terrible economic predicament. However, he was shocked to see so many homeless people living on the streets of Rio in comparison to Buenos Aires. Rio is a tropical city that has experienced economic and cultural decline since losing its status as the capital about sixty years ago.
These two factors contribute to a high homeless population: economic recession and a warm climate. Unlike in Argentina, where it is very possible to die from the cold while sleeping on the streets, in Rio, nobody will die from the cold.
When Tadeu’s daughters arrived, we talked about everything and nothing for a while, and of course, dogs—always dogs. The conversation was pleasant and lively; the girls eventually left, and we stayed for more chopps. We said our goodbyes and wished him and his family a good trip back to Australia.
WHAT A GREAT NIGHT!!!
I arrived home early, at about 10 pm Nalva had arrived, so we ate something.
In bed by 11.00 pm.
Thank you.
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Richard
